Azkaine is a lovely village on the banks of the Nivelle river and at the foot of La Rhune mountain.

As I mentioned in the previous post, I was very hungry after the hike and my concerns about the restaurants´ kitchens being closed were right. I tried to get a table at a nice restaurant with outdoors tables facing La Rhune, but they told me that they were not serving to more clients. So, without hesitation, I headed to find one that was still open.

I found one and got in. I had a look at the tables and realized that everybody was having their dessert. A busy waitress was already serving coffees. After a couple of minutes standing there and being completely ignored, I decided to leave and try one more time.

I walked into another place. The carte looked very promising, and I could see a couple of empty tables. However, when I asked the waiter, he also said that they were closed.

It is amazing to observe how different eating-times can be on both sides of the border.

Anyway, I decided to give up and started walking towards the Roman Bridge. Interestingly, it is only referred to as Roman because its arch-shape resembles that ancient style. That said, it dates the from 15th century so it’s still 600 years old. The bridge was built to enable pilgrims cross the Nivelle river on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

Whilst I walked down the village, I saw a small restaurant. The chef walked out to serve a table where two friends were enjoying their food and a bottle of red wine. I decided to try my lack one last time (for the 4th time!)

One of the principal characteristics of high performing athletes, and I suspect that this applies to most other realms, is a pathologic optimism.

I talked to the chef and asked if I could have some food. He said that he only had one dish left and he started describing it. I was so happy to have finally found somewhere to eat that I said yes to whatever they had.

When the dish came, I couldn’t believe my eyes.

I love it when food is not just for fuel or taming hunger, but a whole visual and sensory experience.

I was very happy with my main course and red wine, and I could claim victory with an espresso. However, when the chef came out again and asked if I wanted any dessert, I couldn’t say no.

It was still early, and I had the whole afternoon ahead of me. So, I ordered a coffee and headed to visit the Roman Bridge before driving to one of my family’s favourite spots on the coast: Guéthary.

End of Part Two (⅔)